Jane  and I promised our friends and family that we would make available some of the photos that I took during our holiday in the the south of China during September 2008. 

While I have learnt a little from Barnaby about patience and the planning of photographs, there was so much packed into Wendy Wu Tours' "Dreams of Nature" month-long holiday that I was very conscious that every opportunity would have passed by in an instant, so I took a lot of photos very fast;  I took around 7,000 and discarded 1000 while reviewing them each day.  Now I have had time to review them in detail I have removed those that are utterly boring (even to me), technically unfit, and those that show Jane in a less than flattering light (if there are family members who want to view this last category over Christmas, I am open to bribes).

This leaves about 2,500 !  So that you can be selective about which ones you look at,  I have organised these into 37 albums.  These are arranged in chronological order by location.   Some (e.g. Shanghai) span two or three days and some only half a day; some events span two or three albums in order to limit the number in each album to a maximum of 100.  In the index below there is a very brief explanation of the content of each album and,  if you click on the link for that album a new window will  pop up with the pics in thumbnail form.  You can choose to view just one, o r you can view a whole album at a time up to full-screen size via a supplied media player (selectively,  or as a slideshow).

In maximum quality each photo is between 7 and 16 Mbytes,  but to make them readily viewable each has been reduced to between 1/10th or 1/20th of this!  They are still large enough to display full-screen up to 1500x1000 pixels,  although the software used for the display does degrade the image slightly - especially skin-tones.  If you want to see any photo  at its best, you can choose to download it and use your own preferred viewer.  You can even email me at photos@lacitadelle.co.uk to get a maximum quality version (up to 10Mbytes) of any photo.

We don't currently have enough web-space for so many photos so they are stored on backup repository,  which doesn't behave exactly like normal web pages (for example double clicking or right clicking is needed for some functions,  so I recommend that you click here to pop up some technical advice of how to use the folders.

Since setting this page up, the photo backup system used has reduced its functionality, so I am in the course of changing the links, starting with "Shanghai".

Eric and Jane
lacitadelle.co.uk


Photo Album Index:

01 Shanghai  -  66 photos
< click to enlarge

Many of the pictures are of the spectacular architecture.  I took pictures from the coach, on the Bund, from a waterfront restaurant, from a building overlooking the whole city, of the Yu Yuan gardens and market, of the local and antique and street markets, and on a night cruise on the river. On our final evening I photographed the crowds in the downtown area with its fashionable and pricey  stores.

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02 Huangshan in sunshine  -  55 photos
< click to enlarge The first photos are of the sleeping countryside from our sleeper train to Huang Shan City before dawn.  Of all my pictures I was least satisfied by these of China's Yellow Mountain;  I had great hopes, but to get the best of the peaks and the cloud sea would take a week,  a month,  or even ten years,  to photograph them under all conditions of weather and light.  Still we had a couple of hours of sunshine on our first day here above the clouds.

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03 Huangshan in mist  -  48 photos
< click to enlarge Our second day started at around 5 a.m. when we went out to watch for the sun rising above the cloudsea. Alas, it didn't, but the dawn seeped slowly through the mist that was to envelop us for the rest of the morning. Even through the thick mist the scenery was spectacular, but you have to look closely. At lunchtime we descend again through the clouds by cable-car for lunch and our return to our next hotel in Tunxi (Huang Shan City) where our main luggage is awaiting us.

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04 Tunxi  -  20 photos

< click to enlarge
We explored the ancient street of the Tunxi district of Huang Shan City at dusk,  before dinner.  The ancient shops and houses were beautifully and unobtrusively preserved.   The shops were mostly high-priced antique outlets,  and the people in the streets Chinese tourists,  but there were street vendors,  and we wandered out of the other end to where the real shops and canteens were.

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05 To Zhangjiajie by coach  -  57 photos

< click to enlarge This long coach journey was our first real view of the countryside of southern China.  Taking photos through coach windows isn't ideal, and the pictures are not perfect, but I think that they are  interesting.

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06 Zhangjiajie 1  -  91 photos

< click to enlarge Again mist-shrouded peaks recede rapidly into the blue distance,  and such photographs tend to all look the same.  Nevertheless these are the most distinctive ones - some even good, I hope.

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07 Baofeng Lake  -  25 photos

< click to enlarge This was a fairly short visit to a high mountain lake.   I found it a little claustrophobic and gloomy under the shadow of the high peaks surrounding it.

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08 Zhangjiajie 2 --  88 photos

< click to enlarge This depicts a long,  long walk up a high mountain stream,  surrounded by peaks.  Again I've tried to select pictures worth seeing  - of water, peaks, and the people on the trek.

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09 Zhangjiajie 3  -  26 photos

< click to enlarge Our visit by cable car to Mount Tianfu was short,  because of our local guide's haste to get us to an outlet selling mass-produced "sand paintings".

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10 Zhangjiajie City  -  72 photos

< click to enlarge Zhangjiajie City is in two parts,  separated by a 50-minute drive. This,  the commercial half,  was far nicer than the tourist outpost at the national park gates.   While many of the other members of our party went off on an optional excursion to yet another mountain,  we enjoyed ourselves enormously exploring the streets and markets of a real Chinese town on our own,  as we had in Shanghai.

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11 Changsha  -  11 photos

< click to enlarge Changsha was the most architecturally uninspiring of the provincial capitals that we stayed in .   Nevertheless I had a chance to go out early in the morning to explore the roads and back-alleys around our hotel.

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12 Train to Zhengyuan 1  -  61 photos

< click to enlarge Billed as a "scenic train journey",  this five-hour train journey across Hunan Province from Changsha was outstanding from a scenic point of view.  It went through cities, towns, villages, farming areas,  and areas of wild country and peaks.

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13 Train to Zhenyuan 2  -  79 photos

< click to enlarge The journey continues through the harvest-paddy field and peaks.

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14 Train to Zhenyuan 3  -  63 photos

< click to enlarge The fields of golden rice were full of families and villagers harvesting the  crop  -   cutting, threshing, and bagging the rice by hand.

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15 Zhenyuan 1  -  89 photos

< click to enlarge Zhenyuan is an ancient Han garrison town.  Located in a stunning position on a small river, it is teaming with the children of the local ethnic groups  -  the Miao and Dong people.  Many of the early photos are of and from the Green Dragon Cave  -  not a cave at all but "the doyenne of Taoist temples" built into the hillside overlooking the river with its fishermen,  boatmen,  and swimming children.

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16 Tiexi  -  84 photos

< click to enlarge This "scenic spot" is an ancient walk way up a mountain stream, leading to an extraordinary bright blue pool  -  the source of the stream,  coloured by copper salts.  More than one of our party succumbed to the dangers of the slippery walkway,  the stepping stones,  or the precarious bamboo-pole bridges!  I know that Neville and Moira have a similar picture of me leading Jane across this bridge.

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17 Zhenyuan 2  -  73 photos

< click to enlarge After lunch we rushed back to Zhenyuan to visit the ancient Fu family home overlooking the rooftops of the town,  and to wander along the river watching the dragon boat races.  In the evening we went out walking to enjoy the lights along the river and the views of the people still going about their lives.

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18 Wuyang cruise  -  100 photos

< click to enlarge A peaceful cruise on the Wuyang river between steep hills and cliffs.  The boat was chartered just for our small party, and there was nothing to do but watch (and photograph) the scenery,  the fishing boats,  and the houseboats and villages.  At the start there are locals selling spicy seafood brochettes made to order from their own freshly caught fish.

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19 Zhenyuan waiting room  -  28 photos

< click to enlarge The railway waiting room at Zhenyuan was an experience in itself.  At least there were seats for hundreds, and shops and refreshments.  I whiled away the wait for the train back to Guiyang by photographing the other passengers (and Lily, our national guide).

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20 Train to Guiyang  -  85 photos

< click to enlarge This shows the scenery on the way back to Guiyang, only from the other side of the train and in the late afternoon rather than the morning. The last photo is very fuzzy - it was taken in a dim and vibrating railway carriage - but it is magic: it is of all the Chinese travelers in the carriage rising to cheer on Peter in his brave attempt to eat the reconstituted noodles in his packed meal bag!

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21 Huangguoshu Falls  -  80 photos

< click to enlarge These are claimed to be China's (or Asia's?) highest falls - but only by virtue of the fact that they drop in many stages over a distance of two or three miles. Still they are very impressive, and trying to take photos under the waterfall is a bit like working in a shower cubicle with the shower on full - only worse!

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22 Li River 1  -  64 photos

< click to enlarge The Li River hosts 11 million visitors a year, so it is not surprising to see a few westerners amongst them.  Still we were still a tiny minority.  It was exactly as expected  - the broad river meandering between misty peaks, with fishermen with cormorants, and peddlers on bamboo rafts.

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23 Li River 2  -  64 photos

< click to enlarge The cruise boats all start out stem to stern, like a train, but soon space out until, if anything, they enhance the scenery as you can seldom see more that one ahead.  The men and women making their livelihood on fragile rafts on the water are fascinating.

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24 Yangshuo  -  76 photos

< click to enlarge Yangshuo is the destination for those 11 million, and is mainly a huge bazaar. Bargaining is a great art that the local traders seem to relish even though the buyers always seem to get the better side of the bargain. The morning after the river cruise we went out into farming country to see the people and visit a farmer and his family.

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25 Guilin  -  83 photos

< click to enlarge Guilin is a tourist focus as well.  As well as glimpses of the city, we see the Reed Flute Caves, Mount Diecal overlooking the city centre, Guilin's night market, and gardens in the city centre.

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26 Juizhaigou 1  -  94 photos

< click to enlarge Juizhaigou is in the Aba Autonomous Tibetan and Chiang  Prefecture, up on the edge of the Tibetan plateau. We flew into its (military) airport which, at 4,500 metres is China's second highest. This first album is of the Nine Villages Valley itself - although nearly all the villages appeared to have been cleared recently of their (Tibetan) inhabitants;  newspapers reported disturbances here two weeks before we visited and there was a strong but polite military presence.  The valley contains a chain of extraordinary lakes with green and blue water, linked by waterfalls.
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27 Juizhaigou  2  -  94 photos

< click to enlarge This album was taken at the end of the afternoon, after we had walked and bussed down from 4,500 metres, and shows the trappings of Tibetan Buddhism hopelessly entangled with the earlier Bo or Benbo religion, and a large Tibetan tourist bazaar.

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28 Tibetan concert  -  89 photos

< click to enlarge Within walking distance of our hotel we attended a Tibetan and Chiang concert - dancers, singers and comedy entertainment. It was absolutely excellent. As Jane and I were sitting in a very exposed position within inches of the low stage, I had an excellent opportunity to take these photographs, which have come out very well despite the generally low light level.

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29 Huanglong  -  43 photos

< click to enlarge Huanglong - the Yellow Dragon - is at the head of the adjacent valley. Again starting at about 4,500 metres it is an area of white, yellow and purple calcite deposited as the mineral laden waters flow down the head of the valley via calcite-rimmed pools and waterfalls.

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30 Minshan  -  35 photos

< click to enlarge Our return to Juizhaigou-Huanglong Airport took us through a high mountain pass in the Min Shan range with close views of Mount Xuebaoding, the highest mountain in what the Chinese refer to coyly as "China proper". Most of the photos were taken through the coach windows: I got out at one point and it was absolutely freezing!

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31 Leshan 1  -  99 photos

< click to enlarge Leshan is rapidly becoming a major tourist destination because of its 73 metre high Buddha carved into a cliff. The real high-spot of this visit was a walk along the waterfront with its cafes, and being let loose in a real market!

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32 Leshan 2  -  46 photos

< click to enlarge A ferry trip to view the Sleeping Buddha (the first photo in the album) and the giant red carved Buddha itself.  After that more wandering through the streets by ourselves until time to get back in the coach,

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33 Chengdu  -  44 photos

< click to enlarge We were fortunate to stay overnight in the very centre of Chengdu at the start of Golden Week - China's major national holiday ( a whole week instead of just one day like Chinese New Year). These pictures are mostly of the city centre, around Tianfu Square, at night with all the lights and decorations for the holiday.

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34 Pandas  -  49 photos

< click to enlarge Despite the damage done by the May 2008 Sichuan earthquake, Chengdu is still one of the major world centres for panda breeding research. We were able to view and photograph many giant pandas and the less well-known red pandas at close quarters, and see (but not photograph) baby pandas in their incubators.

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35 Sanxingdui Museum  -  42 photos

< click to enlarge Despite being little-known outside China, the Sanxingdui archæological site outside Chengdu has yielded an extraordinary treasure of jade, bronze and gold artifacts.  Most of them can be seen in a new museum, rather than at the dig as in the past. I photographed  much of this  Bronze-Age art and include a few of the pictures in this album.

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36 Chinese Opera  -  30 photos

< click to enlarge We spent our last evening at a "chinese opera" concert in Chengdu. Not really to my taste, but the mask changers  and the fire eater were excellent.

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37 Goodbye Chengdu  -  16 photos

< click to enlarge After the concert, approaching midnight, we ventured out through the back streets of Chengdu to find an internet cafe and check-in online for our flight back to London via Hong Kong. The next morning we set out amongst the extraordinary crowds of National Day, October the first.  Chengdu Airport's International terminal was the best I have ever encountered: it was the least stressful airport experience we have ever had, due to the  consideration and helpfulness of the staff - and the fact that we were almost the only people there (Jane's wondering where everyone else is in the picture opposite!).

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Eric Finlayson
www.lacitadelle.co.uk






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